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I finished the jack points this weekend. Thought I'd have them finished last weekend but I only got to work about half the time I had planned, asusual. Anyway, here are some pictures of the jack point on the right side. I used 3/8" x 16 all-thread rod couplings, which you should be able to find at most any hardware store. Leighton Mangels suggested this size as it's the same thread as the screw-in tie downs that come with the Legacy.
Image 1: I cut an opening in the end rib of the wing center section for the all thread nut installation. I filed the notches you see in the ridges of the nut. Probably unneccesary, but it just seemed like a good idea. I also glued a washer on top of the nut to increase the top surface area. I drilled a 3/8" hole from the bottom of the wing so that I could run a 3/8" bolt up from the bottom and into the nut. This held the nut in place while
applying flox and BIDs, and is where I will screw in a bolt whenever I need to jack up the plane. (Yes, this hole was through the lower spar cap, but it's way outside of the load bearing section.)
Image 2: I applied a 4-BID, on each side of the rib, from the top of the nut to the top of the rib. This is the outside view. On the inside the BID is applied to both the rib and the back side of the spar web.
Image 3: Next I applied a 6-BID, on each side of the rib, from the bottom of the rib to the top of the rib, overlaying the nut and the previous 4-BID. Oh yeah, before the 6-BID I put flox around the nut so there wouldn't be any voids under the BID. On the inside the BID is applied to both the rib and the back side of the spar web, just like the 4-BID. I also put peel ply over the BIDs for a nicer finished surface. This picture was taken after removing the peel ply and restoring the holes that had been previously cut.
Image 4: View from under the wing with the jack point bolt in place. This is a 3/8" carriage bolt, but any type of 3/8" bolt can be used -- whatever works the best. To protect the inside of the bolt hole I waxed the bolt so epoxy wouldn't stick to it, coated the inside of the hole with epoxy, then screwed the bolt part way in. I also pushed a little flox in around the waxed bolt so that it will fit snugly in the hole.
Happy building,
Tom Gourley
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